Sweet Syringe by Roger J. Wendell (Published in the Colorado Mountain Club's "Tech Section News" - January, 2002) Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe is its “official” name. However, my climbing partner John Schaphorst insists on labeling it “Sweet.” I didn’t think to ask if it’s because he enjoys the route, or because of any special medical interests…. “Chrome Plated,” as the old timers call it, is a 5.7 trad route on the “Pear Buttress” of Rocky Mountain National Park’s “Lumpy Ridge” climbing area. Getting there, from Denver, ain’t too tough. Meander up Highway 36, through Boulder if you choose, past Lyons and Big Elk Meadows (don’t blink or you’ll miss “Big” Elk). In Estes Park, itself, I always make a brief stop at the Stanely Hotel to pay homage to Jack Nicholson and “The Shining.” From the Stanely you make a right turn onto Devil’s Gulch Road on your way to the heavily populated parking lot at McGregor’s Ranch. The long, narrow parking area is located just beneath a prominent rock formation called Twin Owls (an interesting rock that I’ll describe in another trip report). As luck would have it, John and I were one of three (yes, only 3!) cars in the entire parking lot that lucky day in early October. Turns out that sneaking away from the office, on Columbus Day, has its rewards… At the trailhead we encountered what can only be described as a perfect fall day. The air was crisp, clear and cool with long views and no crowds; life couldn’t be better. The mile or so hike for the approach was steep at the end but quite enjoyable. With some huffing and swearing we found our way to the climb’s base - a system of cracks on Batrachian Slab on the bottom of The Pear. It was agreed that John would lead the first pitch only if I was allowed to pick the start. As is my custom, I chose what appeared to be an unusual and hardly used variation – an old lichen trough. John did well, only kicking a small amount of the green flaky stuff onto his belayer. I think this weird start added a point or two to the route’s overall rating, making it maybe a 5.8sl or 5.9sl start (SL for “Slippery Lichen”). Above the lichen slick we swung the lead, each taking turns on what L. Desauls calls the “Stupid End” of the rope. After a bit of head scratching we were able to stay on route, making the summit in four long pitches (using a 50 meter rope we had to stretch each pitch out, sometimes requiring the belayer to stand on his tiptoes while the lead pulled the rope taught, with considerable force, to gain purchase for the next belay). Chrome Plated offers some nice crack and face climbing along different parts of its length. The crack protects well while portions of the face can run out a bit. Near the end, for the grand finale, there’s a quick little chimney that pops you out on top of the world. It was there, in the warm Fall sunshine, that we languished awhile to enjoy the scenery afforded our lofty perch on the summit block. After finishing up our Reeses Pieces and tofu jerky, we took the not so pleasant rappel 60’ feet down a hallway-sized crack. The rappel bolts looked new and solid; still, rappelling makes me want to puke so it’s always a great relief when I can yell back to John, “Off Rappel!” The mile walk to the car was pleasant but brief. From there it was a far too quick return to cell phones, faxes, Emails, jobs… Roger J. Wendell http://www.rogerwendell.com