www.RogerWendell.com
Roger J. Wendell
Defending 3.8 Billion Years of Organic Evolution^SM

Jim and Annetta

Skiing!   Backcountry, Cross-country, and Telemark: No Crowds.  More Nature.  Less Expense.  Lots More Fun! (Often referred to as "Free-heeling" since the boot binding allows your foot to lift up and down - unlike downhill bindings that "lock" your heel into place...)

Q: What's the difference between a commercial ski slope and a logging clearcut? A: Clearcuts grow back!!

Click Here for my skiing experience at Margy's Hut and the house of Hunter S. Thompson!

Click Here for a few pix of Steve Farley and I skiing in our "backyard" on Green Mountain!

Pulling sleds for Denali

Throughout Colorado's backcountry it's common to find folks preparing for big climbs in other places around the world - our 14,000 foot peaks are the perfrect workout for anyone aspiring to even higher adventures around the world. In this case, these guys were peparing for Denali, in late spring, and agreed to let me photograph and film them. They're all pulling sleds, along with their packs, to accommodate all the gear they'll need for many weeks on the mountain. Click Here for my YouTube video of these guys pulling their sleds uphill...

The Case Against Ski Resorts:

ALAW and the liftline...

Okay, I have an obvious bias here! I've been to ski resorts in California, Canada, Europe, Utah and all over Colorado and they're all pretty much the same - expensive fashion shows that have little respect for the natural environment (they're usually crowded, overbuilt clearcuts that take too much water for snowmaking and saunas) or solitude. However, downhill skiing does offer you a lot of social interaction if you love long liftlines, packed parking and crowded shops! Backcountry, cross-country, telemark, and touring are modes of skiing much different than the "downhill" drudgery I mention above! First, these types of skiing excursions don't cost much since you're not paying for an expensive lift ticket or latte. Second, since you need to get to the top under you're own power it's a much healthier workout than you'd ever get at Aspen, Mammoth, or Chamonix.

Finally, the backcountry (if you're lucky enough to be free of the snowmobiles!) is a clean, healthy, beautiful, and exhilarating experience that can't be matched in any manmade artificial environment! There's nothing like carving a few turns down the side of the Continental Divide with nothing but wilderness visible in every direction!

There's no doubt that backcountry skiing is about as low impact as it gets - just a couple of tracks through the snow and wildlife that's protected from another parking garage or ski lodge. Give the backcountry a try and you'll never go back to Vail!

- Roger J. Wendell

Back to the Backcountry!

Montezuma, Colorado
Population 42, Elevation 10,200 feet (3,109 metres)

Montezuma is located near the resort of Keystone, Colorado and provides
some handy parking for backcountry skiers interested in sometime quiet
destinations like St Johns or the Hunki Dori and Wild Irishman mines.
Unfortunately noisy, smelly snowmobiles have access to much of the area,
as well, so be careful!

Towne Centre

Public parking

Public Restroom

CMCers on the move!

Wild Irishman Mine Cabin

On January 6, 2007 CMC leader Dave Callais took 13 of us on the seven mile roundtrip tour of the Wild Irishman mine. Temperatures, that day, averaged about 10 degrees with strong wind gusts later in the afternoon (there was a huge avalanche near Berthoud Pass, not far from us, while we were skiing that day...).

Miscellaneous Ski Trips:

1.

2.

3. (Photo by Tom Bresnahan)

4.

5.

6.

McCullogh Gulch
(Quandry Peak, Colorado - leader Rocky Smith 03-11-2006)

McCullough Gulch Sign	Rocky Smith & Me!	Rocky Smith Breaking Trail	Going up hill...	McCullough Gulch Trail
Trespassers will be shot!	A Trespasser...	Our group	In Line...	Andrea

Spruce Creek
(Frasier Experimental Forest, Colorado - leader Mark Porter 02-25-2006)

Typical Trail Marker

Removing Skins

Mark the leader!

Nancy

Nancy and Roger

Going Up Hill

Avalanche:

On 03/22/05 my friend Janet Farrar took these photos of an avalanche northeast of Jones Pass here in Colorado (this avalanche was just west of Vasquez Peak on the south east slope of the unnamed 12,316' peak on the Continental Divide). As beautiful as these pictures appear avalanches kill many people each year. Ken Booker (and other acquaintances of mine) died in an avalanche so I hope you'll visit the Colorado Avalanche Information center page to raise your safety awareness level!

"Waxless" skis:

Waxless skis usually have little fish-like "scales," on the bottom (beneath the boot binding), to provide traction for forward motion. Depending on local ski conditions they generally work okay. Waxless skis can be rented everywhere and are useable by almost everyone. However, my experience has been that traditional skis, that require waxing, are superior in the long run.

Although waxless skis require almost no maintenance, they do, indeed benefit from glide wax at times. Also, waxless don't seem to do any better when going up hill - I can usually keep up with somebody on waxless, while using my waxable skis, if I've applied the correct temperature of wax. And, of course, "skins" (a friction fabric attached to the bottom of each ski when going up steep hills click Here for an explanation and comparison) beat waxable and waxless on terrain only snowshoers can access.

Finally, everybody agrees that waxable skis are vastly superior on flat terrain, and when going down hill. Those using waxable skis can "kick and glide" with substantially less effort than those on waxless skis. Also, you'll find that so much less effort is required with waxables, while going down a slight incline, that you can some times just drift along motionless while your waxless partner is kicking, poling, pushing, and panting to maintain forward momentum.

I'll admit that waxless skis sometimes provide more control, due to their enherent friction, when going down really steep terrain. Again, if conditions are that bad I usually slap the skins back on to my waxables to slow me down a bit. Of course telemark turns, if you've mastered 'em, are usually the solution in any steep terrain...

My Unofficial Waxing Notes:

I'm not that good with wax and have to admit that I've struggled with it on occasion. However, during all those times when I "get it right" it is simply wonderful - gliding is effortless and there is plenty of up-hill "grip" and traction for kicking. When done properly, and with the right conditions, the system is vastly superior to waxless skis or even the "on again," "off again" procedures with skins.

Anyway, here are some rough notes that might help:

1. At the start of the season, or if you've skied a lot this season, use Paint Thinner/Wax Remover to get rid of the old stuff.
2. Drip on glide wax (Blue, usually in the range of about -6C to -12C) from tips to tales by holding to the bottom of an iron, i.e., you're actually holding the wax stick to the iron and letting the melted prodcut fall onto the bottom side of the ski.
3. Then iron it so it covers the whole bottom in a smooth surface that permeates all the pores.
4. Chip off excess including the straight track down the middle.
5. Rub kicker wax, usually a temperature rating similar to the glider, in the wax pocket directly beneath the the bindings. Blue Extra (Oc to -6C) works good for most conditions in Colorado.

Click Here for "Wood N Skis" (a sight dedicated to wooden skis!)...

Pine Tar:

In 2002 a friend in Virginia wrote to ask how she could care for her old wooden Nordic skis with pine tar. Having no clue, I posted a note on one of the CMC's listservers and received replies from Don MacLeod, and a host of others, with all kinds of great info. Don suggested an old book he owns for an authoritative analysis of the Pine Tar question:

A beginner's guide to Cross-Country Skiing:
A step by step introduction to cross-country skiing in North America, by Ned Baldwin.
Copyright 1972 Greywood Publishing Limited, 101 Duncan Mill Road, Don Mills, Ontario.
U.S.A. Distribution by Simon & Schuster Inc.

"Before waxing any wooden ski, the sole of the ski must be prepared by the application of a base
preparation. This is applied to the bare wood and is usually a pine tar derivative or similar
black sticky semi-liquid compound. New skis often come with a light brown coating on their bottoms
which is to protect the wood during shipment from moisture. This should be sanded off with light
sandpaper before application of the base.

"To apply the base, place the skis against a table or some similar object about 3 feet high and
brace tails of the skis against the wall or a cleat nailed to the floor so that they will not
slip. The materials you will need are an old towel, a propane blow torch, and a small can of base
material, commonly called Grundvalla. First, heat the ski slowly from one end to the other,
passing the torch back and forth several inches from the surface, warming it gradually. When the ski
is quite warm to the touch, start applying the grundvalla with a section of the old towel until the
entire ski is coated with quite a heavy layer.

"It is wise to protect the floor with newspapers during this whole operation. But do not worry about
the grundvalla which runs off the bottom of the ski on to the top of the ski as this is easily cleaned
off later with a rag moistened with turpentine. After the ski is fully coated with grundvalla, start
heating it again with the torch, a small section at a time, until it begins to boil. Just before or
immediately after it catches fire, wipe if off with the old towel.

"Continue this process, doing not more than a few inches of ski at a time until completed. This 'cooks'
the grundvalla into the surface of the wood and when you are finished, you have a very smooth and
relatively dry surface, ready for the application of waxes. You will find that you have to repeat this
operation several times during the course of the season, especially if you ski on icy conditions very
often. If you only ski on soft powder snow, your base may last for an entire season.

"After preparing the base, it is wise, although not absolutely necessary to apply a thin binder
wax, or Grundvox, before applying your finish wax. This product comes in a small tube and is
rubbed on very lightly and smoothed out with the palm of your hand or a cork. When it is on, it is
barely visible, only sufficient wax remaining on the ski to leave a fingerprint."

Bring These: Every member of the party must carry the Ten Essentials whenever you're in the backcountry! An avalanche beacon is important even if you're not in suspect terrain - you could be called upon to help search for others in an area near you. A backcountry shovel has countless uses that include digging a snow cave, digging your partner out of an avalanche, creating a litter/sled, etc. Avalanche probe poles can help if the person wasn't wearing a beacon of their own... Learn about avalanche conditions and terrain!

My Gear:

Most of the gear I love was 20 years old by the time I posted these pix on my skiing page! My Fischer 210 cm GTS backcountry skis were state-of-the art back then but couldn't keep up with the turns that the newer, more "shapely" skis are capable of now. Nevertheless, my Fischer skis, Asolo Snowfield II boots, and Riva cable bindings (I insalled 'em myself after having wore out the original three pin bindings...) have served me well in all kinds of terrain and conditions. At the end of '07 and the beginning of '08 I photographed my gear before it got too much more beat up!

Asolo Sport Snowfield II	Riva Cable Binding	Riva Cable Bindings
Duct taping my skins!!	Fischer GTS 210 cm skis	Fischer GTS 210 cm skis	Bottom side with dirty wax!

Okay, you'll notice the letter "R," and even my initials, engraved in the cable binding (and on everything else!). The "R" (and "L" on the other binding) are to identify which foot that particular ski goes on. I know, you'd think I'd have my left and right figured out by now but, believe me, at high altitude or after a day of exhaustion little things like this help you keep your gear on the correct feet! For example, on my plastic mountaineering boots I even have the letter "L" printed backwards - I got that great idea from being really hypoxic one day at 21,000 feet - very much disoriented and in need of every bit of help in putting my gear on correctly! And, of course, my name and initials are on everything not so much as to prevent theft (which they won't) but to ensure my gear doesn't get mixed with somebody else's similar looking equipment...

Backcountry Books:

• Avalanche Handbook, The - published by The Mountaineers
• Glacer Travel and Crevasse Rescue - by Andy Selters
• Mountaineering Firs Aid - A Guide to Accident Response and First Aid Care by The Mountaineers
• Mountaineering The Freedom of the Hills - published by the Mountaineers
• Snow Sense A Guide to Evaluating Snow Avalanche Hazard - By Jill Fredston and Doug Fesler
• Snowy Torrents, The - Avalanche Accidents in the United States 1980-86 by Nick Logan and Dale Atkins
• Click Here for my page on books in general...

Click Here for red, pink, and "Watermelon Snow" at the bottom of my Snow Day page...

Links:

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